Kasuti is a domestic art and a fine folk embroidery of
Karnataka. It is flat embroidery done by counting of threads, eliminating any
tracing and similar on both the surfaces.
Because of counted thread work, the designs appear to be more geometrical
and mechanically accurate.
Materials used for kasuti were mostly khanns used as
blouse pieces and Ilkal sarees (9 yards in length with three fourths of a yard
as Pallav and borders about six to eight inches with a different color in warp
and weft).
The uniqueness of kasuti lays in its stitches. There
are four types of stitches used.They
are
* Gavanti –It is the most commonly used double running stitch
also known as line and back stitch
which works in horizontal, vertical and
diagonal directions.
* Murgi – It is
the zigzag running stitch which appears like steps of a ladder.
* Negi – It is the ordinary stitch
also known as the darning or the weaving stitch
* Menthi –It is the ordinary cross
stitch.
Motifs of
kasuti are Gopurs (temple entrances), pushkarinee (temple tanks),
Deepmalas (towers of light), Tulsi Vrindavans (stands for sacred plants),
Chariots (raths), Palanquins (palkis), the Lotus, the Conch (shankh), the
Elephant with Howdah, the sacred bull ‘Nandi’. Equally popular were home
objects like the Cradle, Anklet, Bells, Lamps, marriage decorations like the
bridegroom’s headgear. The Serpent in a coil, different floral motifs, the
usual birds- parrots, peacocks, swans and occasionally animals like the horses,
even tigers, lions but never seen were cats and dogs.
Talking about colours used in
kasuti it patterns in only one or two colors which is extremely
rare and usual color combinations like orange, green and crimson or purple,
green, orange and red in bright shades. But blue and yellow are never used
together.
The
products of kasuti are
- Kunchi (bonnet and cape combined),
- Lengha (skirt),
- Sharagu (pallav of a sari),
- Kusuba (bodice) and
- Kulai (bonnet).
·
Embroidered sarees were worn by young women on
auspicious occasion like weddings or religious festivals.
·
Hand woven khann embroidered in kasuti patterns were
auspicious gifts received by the young expectant mother from her mother or
mother-in-law.
Images of Kasuti embroidery
Next Kantha from West Bengal.
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