Chickankari

Elegance and richness, the white on white embroidery is chickankari. The embroidery done with white thread on white color fabric is also known as shadow work.

 Its origin has several theories but it was invented in Lucknow. It developed quickly during the period when the Mughals ruled and consisted of styles inspired by Persians. Chickankari is though done on the white muslin background, now is done on fine cotton material like voile, cambric, mulmul, chiffon, georgettes, organdy, nets and other similar sheer fabrics.

 Unity in diversity, this is how one may define chickankari while talking about its stitches. Chickankari includes simple variety of stitches such as satin, back, stem, buttonhole and herringbone stitch, giving a clustorious effect which is simple, gentle and subtle.

This simple stitches used in chickankari has some names given to them. They are:

Bukhia : It is nothing but satin stitch, which is done on wrong side of the material and design is delicately outlined with tiny running stitches from the right side. This sort of embroidery gives a transparent effect. The effect of fine muslin background produces a shadow appearance. The simplified bukhia is herring bone stitch. The stitches that cover the back of the cloth are herring bone style gives a shadow effect, from the right side.

Murri: It is knotted style of chikankari; worked on the centre of flowers, giving an embossed effect nothing but French knot. This resembles the rice grain in shape.

Phanda: It is another type of chikan; it resembles millet and gives a raised effect it falls under the knotted style. This is used to fill the petals, leaves, and calyx etc.

Taipachi is a simple running or darning stitch used to fill the straight or curved lines in the floral motifs.

With the help of these stitches motifs employed are mostly flowers, creepers, fruits like mango, almond, birds like peacock, and parrot.

Lucknow has an international market for its renowned Chikankari work. This embroidery is done on sari borders, tiny buttas in the body of the sari, blouses, kurtas, cuffs, jubbas, caps, table cloth, table mats, cushions, curtains and other household linens.

Indian embroideries have their own charm.  If included as design element in an innovative manner , Richness and elegance will be the two words defining the garment. Indian embroideries are precious possession to Indians – the worth preserving art.