Elegance
and richness, the white on white embroidery is chickankari. The embroidery done
with white thread on white color fabric is also known as shadow work.
Its
origin has several theories but it was invented in Lucknow. It developed quickly during the period when
the Mughals ruled and consisted of styles inspired
by Persians. Chickankari is though done on the
white muslin background, now is done on fine cotton material like voile,
cambric, mulmul, chiffon, georgettes, organdy, nets and other similar sheer
fabrics.
Unity in diversity, this is how one
may define chickankari while talking about its stitches. Chickankari includes
simple variety of stitches such as satin, back, stem, buttonhole and
herringbone stitch, giving a clustorious effect which is simple, gentle and
subtle.
This
simple stitches used in chickankari has some names given to them. They are:
Bukhia : It is nothing but satin stitch, which is done on wrong
side of the material and design is delicately outlined with tiny running
stitches from the right side. This sort of embroidery gives a transparent
effect. The effect of fine muslin background produces a shadow appearance. The
simplified bukhia is herring bone stitch. The stitches that cover the back of
the cloth are herring bone style gives a shadow effect, from the right side.
Murri: It is knotted style of chikankari;
worked on the centre of flowers, giving an embossed effect nothing but French
knot. This resembles the rice grain in shape.
Phanda: It is another type of chikan; it resembles millet and
gives a raised effect it falls under the knotted style. This is used to fill
the petals, leaves, and calyx etc.
Taipachi is a simple running or darning stitch used to fill the
straight or curved lines in the floral motifs.
With
the help of these stitches motifs employed are mostly flowers, creepers, fruits
like mango, almond, birds like peacock, and parrot.
Lucknow has an
international market for its renowned Chikankari work. This embroidery is done on sari borders, tiny buttas in the body of the
sari, blouses, kurtas, cuffs, jubbas, caps, table cloth, table mats, cushions,
curtains and other household linens.
Indian
embroideries have their own charm. If
included as design element in an innovative manner , Richness and elegance will
be the two words defining the garment. Indian embroideries are precious
possession to Indians – the worth preserving art.